Chiloé: the practical guide

Updated July 2026 · Written from Puerto Varas by Patagonia SimRacing

The island of stilt houses, the oldest wooden churches in South America, and curanto: everything you need to know before crossing the Chacao Channel — bridge or no bridge.

The must-sees

1. Castro: stilt houses and the San Francisco church

The provincial capital is instantly recognizable by its palafitos: colorful wooden houses built on stilts along the banks of the Gamboa and Ten Ten rivers, originally designed so fishermen could haul their boats up beneath their own homes. Today many operate as guesthouses, cafés and craft shops. A few blocks away, on the main square, the Church of San Francisco de Castro — its yellow-and-lilac facade designed by Italian architect Eduardo Provasoli in 1912 — is one of the 16 Chilote churches on the World Heritage list.

2. The churches of Chiloé, a World Heritage Site

Sixteen wooden churches built by Jesuit and Franciscan missions between the 17th and 19th centuries, using the local technique of alerce shingles assembled without nails, make up the UNESCO listing inscribed in 2000. Besides San Francisco in Castro, the most visited are the Church of Achao (the oldest, on Quinchao island) and those of Tenaún, Vilupulli and Colo. A full day visiting two or three of them, combined with Dalcahue, is the island's classic cultural outing.

3. Curanto, the taste of the island

The original version, curanto al hoyo, is cooked in a pit in the ground over hot stones: layers of shellfish, meat, chapaleles and milcaos (potato dumplings) covered with nalca leaves until everything steams through. The restaurant version, curanto en olla or pulmay, is available every day in Castro, Dalcahue or Ancud and is the easiest way to try it without arranging a communal cook-out.

4. Chilote mythology

Chiloé has one of Chile's richest oral traditions: the Trauco (a forest goblin), the Pincoya (a sea spirit who foretells whether the fishing will be good or bad), the Caleuche (a ghost ship crewed by warlocks) and the Fiura are part of the island's everyday imagination, not just folklore packaged for tourists. Museums and local guides in Castro and Chonchi tell these stories in greater depth.

5. Dalcahue and the smaller islands

Twenty minutes from Castro, Dalcahue has a craft fair (busiest on Sundays) and the pier for Quinchao island (Achao) and the archipelago's so-called smaller islands, such as Mechuque: coves with more stilt houses and far less tourism than Castro. A good option once you've seen the essentials and want a different kind of day.

Approximate prices (2026, per person)

The car crossing is charged by the shipping companies operating the ferry (rate in force since January 2026); foot passengers travel free or nearly free depending on the operator.

How to get there and when to go

• Overland route: Puerto Montt → Pargua (~1 h by car, about 57 km) → ferry crossing of the Chacao Channel (~30 min, frequent departures all day) → Ancud or Castro (another ~1 h to 1 h 15 from the landing).
• The Chacao bridge: still under construction — not finished. Don't assume you can drive across without the ferry (see FAQ).
• By bus: direct Puerto Montt–Castro services include the ferry in the fare, about 4 hours of total travel.
• Where to stay: Castro has the widest choice of lodging and restaurants; Ancud is closer to the crossing if you're passing through.
• Weather: Valdivian rainforest climate — it rains in any season. Windbreaker and rain jacket always, even in January.
• Season: December–February for the most stable weather (and the most tourists); October–November and March–April for fewer people and better rates.

FAQ

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